4.0 Tracing Scott’s Road - A visual journey

4.0  Tracing Scott’s Road - A visual journey

Even though Scott’s Road is firmly embedded in the modern history of the Khasi Hills, yet so little is known about it. The entire route is literally strewn with history, both political and natural. I have delved into long-forgotten and obscure texts to piece together what Scott’s Road might have been when it was created.

4.1 Theria Ghat

4.1   

Theria Ghat (near Bholaganj)

 Dak Bungalow

Theria Ghat

We begin tracing Scott’s Road at Therria Ghat. Therria lies below Mahadeo in the East Khasi Hills District of Meghalaya.

4.2 Mawpun-ka-Rytiang (Mawpunkyrtiang)

4.2        

Mawpun-ka-Rytiang

(Mawpunkyrtiang)[48]

From Therria Ghat, Scott’s Road led to a curious small village called Mawpunkyrtiang, close to Cherra punji. The tale about the Siem of Malyniang is the pride of the Maskut people, for in olden days their King, i.e. the Siem of Malyniang, was supposed to have been a very powerful monarch amongst the Khasis: 

4.3 Moosmai (the stones of the oath of allegiance)

4.3

 Moosmai  

(the stones of the oath of allegiance)

Around 1834, Alexander Lish of the Serampore Mission (Serampore was then under Danish occupation) built three schools at Cherra poonjee, Mawsmai and Mawmluh. The Serampore Mission, however, abandoned its efforts in the hills in 1838. They were followed by the Welsh Mission, and the first school was built in Mawsmai in 1842, a small village, 2 miles from Cherra punjee.

4.4 Mamloo (the salt stone)

4.4

Mamloo

(the salt stone)[54]

As mentioned above, around 1834, Alexander Lish of the Serampore Mission built one of three schools at Mawmluh. The Welsh Mission built their second school in Mawmluh in 1842.

4.5 Laitkynsew

4.5

 Laitkynsew

In 1906, Gurdon made reference to the waterfall of Ka Likai, which was a magnificent cascade in the rainy season[58]. It could be best viewed from the heights of Laitkynsew. The waterfall was situated close to the village of Nongriat, which was approached by a succession of stone steps from the village of Tyrna, just below the Charra punji Laitkynsew bridle-path.

4.6 Cherra Punji (the plantation by the stream)

4.6

 Cherra Punji

(the plantation by the stream)

 Dak Bungalow

Scott’s Road now led to Cherra punji, which was to be the principal station in the Khasi Hills. Cherra punji went on to become an important military as well as a missionary base and could boast of a sanatorium, a jail, and a police station.

4.6a Kalapanee

4.6a

Kalapanee[74]

We now digress from Scott’s Road to the remarkable countryside. In 1850, the features described in Cherra continued for 8 miles, when a sudden descent of 600 or 700 feet, led into the valley of the Kala-panee river (black water), where there was a very dark and damp bungalow[75].

4.6b Surareem/Sohra Rim (Old Cherra)

4.6b

Surareem/Sohra Rim (Old Cherra) Dak Bungalow

In 1835, Surureem offered travellers a place for a halt. Bucklandia grew here, of a very large size, perhaps 50 or 60 feet.  It was a rugged-looking tree, many of the branches being decayed.

4.6c Lailang-kot

4.6c

Lailang-kot

We continue our digression and wander into Lailangkot, another village full of iron forges, from a height near which a splendid view could be obtained over the Churra flat.

4.7 Lad Mawphlang

4.7

Lad Mawphlang

As mentioned previously, these days tourism operators conduct the David Scot Pony Trail Trek[86]. The Ladmawphlang to Mawphlang section is approximately 18-20 kilometres long and takes about 6 hours to complete.

4.8 Moflong – the grassy stone

4.8

Moflong – the grassy stone

Dak Bungalow

From Lad Mawphlang, Scott’s Road leads to Mawphlang. One of the more popular trekking routes is the old mule track traditionally used by people to travel from Mawphlang to present day Bangladesh[87], which takes about 5 days to complete.

4.8(a) Laban Road

4.8(a)

Laban/Shillong

Years after Scott’s Road was constructed, there were two important roads from Mawphlang. The first of these roads led to Shillong, an in about 1866, it was very level until one reached the dak bungalow. There one had to descend 1,000 feet to Laban or Shillong[101] (at that time Laban was synonymous with Shillong).

4.8(b) Jowai Road

4.8(b)

Jowai

The second of these roads went to Jowai in the Jaintia Hills – the other important centre, apart from Cherra, and Shillong (and possibly Jaintiapur). This road went across the Bogapanee river, then the Kalapanee river, Surrareem, Lailangkot and on to Jowai.

4.9 Mawngap

4.9

Mawngap

Currently the bridle path from Ladmawphlang to Mawngap (via Mawphlang) is in excellent condition, and at the end of the journey, one can sample Khasi cuisine and the local tipple – Kiad[102].

4.10 Lantentannia

4.10  

Lantentannia

Continuing northward from Moflong, the road, after 5 miles, dipped into a very broad and shallow flat-floored valley, fully a mile across, which resembled a lake bed. It was bounded by low hills, and was called "Lanten-tannia" and was bare but for long grass and herbs[103].

4.11 Lumbree

4.11 

Lumbree/Mumbree

From a brief glimpse of Lantentannia, we move on to Lumbree. On 1 April 1829, Scott left Lieutenants Bedingfield and Burlton, thinking that they were in perfect security, and arrived in Churra Poonjee on 2 April 1829[104].

4.12 Syong (the black plum)

4.12   

Syong (the black plum)

Sohiong was one of the independent Khasi states. On 4 May 1829, the Cassyas, seeing Scott, their potential victim likely to escape, planned an ambush at Zumbree, where Scott was to be invited to pass the night[107].

4.13 Dengshipoong river

4.13   

Dengshipoong river

The next stage was the road across the Dengship-oong river, which flowed in a narrow valley, till the descent to the valley of Myrung[110].

4.14 Myrung

4.14   

Myrung/Koolong Rock

Dak Bungalow

After Cherra punji, Mawphlang and Nongkhlaw (which appears further down the road), Myrang was a strong contender for a sanitarium. 

4.14(a) Kollong

4.14(a)

Kollong

In 1844, Henry Yule mentioned that about 30 miles from Shillong[119] to the west stood a very remarkable rock called by the natives 'Kalung.' This formed a most imposing feature in the landscape from various points in the hills.

4.14(b) Kyllang and Symper

4.14(b)

Kyllang and Symper

In 1906, Philip Gurdon refered to a wonderful mass of granite known by the name of the Kyllang Rock[123]. He mentions that the Syntengs had a story that when the strong west wind blew in the spring, this was due to the advent of U Kyllang, who came to visit his wife, the river Umngot[124], at that season.

4.15 Nungkhlow (the village in the wilderness)

4.15

Nungkhlow

(the village in the wilderness)

Ostrich Hill

 Dak Bungalow

It was here that the story of the Scott’s Road began. On 1 November 1826, Scott along with Major White, entered Nongkhlaw in order to negotiate for the construction of a road - which later came to be known as Scott’s Road.

4.15(a) Ostrich Hill

4.15(a)

Ostrich Hill

Not far from Nongkhlao was a beautiful spot known by the name of ‘Ostrich Hill’, and on its summit stood a humble monument bearing an inscription:

“Multis ille bonis fleblis occidit, Nulli fledilior mihi”

Translated[148], this means: “Falling after daring great deeds he perished, bemoaned by many good men”.

4.16 Borpanee River

4.16       

Borpanee River (Khri)[151]

In 1835, William Griffith travelled on this road and noted that a small stream ran at the foot of the descent, however he did not know its name[152].  About 2 hours’ walk from this stream, flowing along a valley was the Bustapanee. 

4.17 Nowgong

4.17

 Nowgong

In November 1835, as the shades of evening lengthened William Griffith quickened his pace, and at last when it became dark, came up with the coolies in a most rugged road. When it was dark, after stumbling about a good deal, he made his way to the foot of the descent, and reached a small stream.

4.18 Umloor

4.18   

Umloor

In March 1865, James Thornton traversed an open country consisting of grassy undulating hills almost devoid of trees. This continued for several miles, and then his party entered a dense jungle of chiefly bamboo which appeared to cover the hills in every direction towards the north[157].