4.5 Laitkynsew

4.5

 Laitkynsew

In 1906, Gurdon made reference to the waterfall of Ka Likai, which was a magnificent cascade in the rainy season[58]. It could be best viewed from the heights of Laitkynsew. The waterfall was situated close to the village of Nongriat, which was approached by a succession of stone steps from the village of Tyrna, just below the Charra punji Laitkynsew bridle-path.

This part of the world is unique for its living root bridges. These days, intrepid travellers are confronted with either weathered flights of stone steps or lush green moss covered steps, which makes the going very tough. This however is not an impediment for the Nongriat villagers who are often seen merrily skipping up and down these steps like mountain goats[59]. The gorge village of Nongriat leads down to the living root bridges. The road is in use every day of the year not only by villagers from Nongriat, but also from Nongthymmai and Mynteng.

Laitkynsew is a charming village located in East Khasi Hills District of Meghalaya[60]. It is about 15 kilometres from Cherra punji. Laitkynsew is noted for its unique innovative bio-engineering implement, the living root bridge. The ‘construction’ of such a bridge takes 20-30 years to complete. There is even a double-decker bridge of this sort a few miles away, but only for those who are ready for an exhaustive trek. The living root bridges look magnificent - a living tree that has been drawn out across the river and encouraged to root itself again in the opposite bank[61]. Smaller roots are crisscrossed to make the sides of the path.

  

The track that leads to one of these living root bridges winds through woodlands and gardens where there are plots of bay leaves planted by the villagers of Nongriat. Long before reaching the living root bridge, a traveller can experience the sound of rushing water, the scent of wet earth and leaves, the sight of sticky snail trails, the sunlight playing hide and seek with the clouds, and the glint on spiders' web. There are long linked bamboo pipes with which the villagers tap water from the stream. They use the water for their betel leaf crops in winter. 

There's an almost level walk that leads over the top of a hill and then passes through the forests of Laitkynsew. The path meanders by a natural rock garden and looks down the cliff at Mawlong village and Ichhamati's limestone mines. Looking south, there is a bird's eye view of the Sylhet plains below laid out like a brown and green jigsaw. The landscape dips into a beautiful green valley between the Mawshamok and Laitkynsew hills. Waterfalls streak the sides of the hills and at the nearest one is at the right fork after Mawshamok a kilometre down the road. 

These days tourism operators conduct the David Scot Pony Trail Trek[62]. The Laitkynsew Hill portion is 7 kilometres. Long and takes about 2 hours to complete. One of the smaller treks takes one uphill and proceeds to Mawshamok. The last portion is descended by steps. The dry months are from November to March and are a popular time for trekking. The Scott’s Road here is partially paved and has stone steps. It starts at the foot of Laitkynsew hill reaches the top, and then proceeds to Sohra, Ladmawphlang, Mawphlang, Mairang and finally to Boko in Assam.