4.15 Nungkhlow (the village in the wilderness)

4.15

Nungkhlow

(the village in the wilderness)

Ostrich Hill

 Dak Bungalow

It was here that the story of the Scott’s Road began. On 1 November 1826, Scott along with Major White, entered Nongkhlaw in order to negotiate for the construction of a road - which later came to be known as Scott’s Road.

This was the third occasion on which Europeans had entered the hill territory of the Khasi tribes. Emerging from the hot muggy plains of Assam[125], Scott’s party was delighted to see the enchanting verdure of these hills, and breathed their pure and balmy atmosphere:

“Oh, there is sweetness in the mountain air, And life, which bloated ease can never hope to share.” 

In the winter of 1826, the atmosphere was unusually clear, and looking across the valley, Scott’s party saw the snowy ranges of the Himalayas in all its glory. The plains of Assam lay below, enveloped in a dense haze, penetrated in places by bright gleams of sunshine - the silvery Brahmaputra winding gently to the sea. The party arrived in the evening at Nongkhlao – a small village, perched on top of a hill. The aspect of the country reminded the British of the beautiful sheep hills in the south of Scotland[126]. 

Scott undertook to make the road passable for Tonjons (an open chair, with a hood, carried on men's shoulders) if not horses, by means of a party of Assamese convicts[127]. With proper bearers, he thought it would be possible to get it up, however, he was of the view that the low country bearers would not do, unless they had previously been broken into hill-work. Scott had no doubt that the Cassyas themselves, would soon learn to carry a double-poled Tonjon, if not on their shoulders, but slung in their own way, over the head. 

At Nongkhlao a gale blew from West-South-West, very similar to the hot winds up the country, but with the agreeable difference of being quite cool and pleasant[128]. The sky was a fine clear blue, with a few small clouds sailing away to the east. Scott had observed this since he had been in Assam, throughout the hot weather. All the clouds, at a great elevation, proceeded to the east, while those nearer the ground, and the wind itself blew, in exactly the opposite direction. The circumstance of the wind being westerly, Scott thought, was favourable to the salubrity of the climate. This was the conventional wisdom in Hindoostan then, notwithstanding the intolerable heat with which it was generally accompanied.

On or about 14 April 1827, Scott had written to a Mr. Tucker about the road[129]. Scott was of the view that a secure and comfortable bungalow should be built at Churra Poonjee, in the first instance, otherwise it would be impossible for anyone to set about leisurely exploring a better route. With a half-way house between Nongkhlao and Churra Poonjee, the journey might very well be performed in two days. The direct distance being much less than double what it was from here to the plains (of Assam), and the ups and downs of the road infinitely less numerous. If Scott were sure of good quarters at Churra Poonjee, he would have made arrangements to go over immediately, but without a secure place to go, he could not do so. 

Nungklow for some time after Scott's first settlement in the hills, continued to be his favourite residence[130], and even after visiting Moflung (which is about 1,400 feet higher) at the end of May, he gave his preference to Nungklow, which he found much cooler, and alluded, particularly, to the delightful westerly breeze which prevailed there almost throughout the year. Even at that advanced period of the season, there had been only three slight showers, while in Assam, they had been deluged with torrents of rain.  

Shortly afterwards, this favourable opinion was greatly shaken by very severe sickness, which, at the end of May and beginning of June 1827, attacked both Europeans and natives to an alarming extent, and rendered the salubrity of Nungklow more than questionable. The Cossyahs, also, maintained the superior healthiness of Churra poonjee, and from that time, measures were adopted for experimentally proving the correctness of their opinion. 

Towards the end of May and beginning of June 1827, almost all suffered from slight bowel complaints[131]. The sickness amongst the servants was, most alarming, and this was considered a most serious drawback upon the advantages of a temporary residence at Nongkhlao. The Bengalees said that they were not subject to the same sickness at Churra Poonjee. In the case of the servants, the passage through the jungly tract that occupied the first 25 miles of the road, may have had an ill effect.

In the cold season of 1830, Ensign[132] David Hay Brodie commanded a party of 25 or 30 Cassyas, who supported the British cause. When Lower Assam was invaded, he performed essential services at their head. He rivalled them in deeds of hardship and simplicity of living, and performed astonishing marches, entirely on foot, without a tent, and living on the same fare as his men. Undeterred by the dread of miasma, he penetrated the densest jungles, and ferreted the Cassyas out of their haunts, but the malignant air of these woods finally brought a premature end to his career. He sickened of fever in the jungles, and dragging himself to Nongkhlao, was borne to his grave after a day or two's illness there.  

Scott had been grieved and shocked by the distressing news of Brodie's death[133]. Scott had only heard from Mirza (presumably, his servant) that Brodie was brought in ill with fever, on 20 April 1831, and died on 23 April 1831. Scott did everything in his power to prevent Brodie from exposing himself in the dreaded jungles of the lower Cassya Hills. Scott had pleaded with Brodie to stay above in the Hills, and send down the peons and sebundies to scour the country below, but it was all in vain. From his long silence, after being down at the Loabhee Dower, he began to fear the worst. 

In 1826, Scott, with Raja Teeruth Singh’s permission, erected a bungalow for invalids at Nunclow, the capital of his country. The site chosen for the sanatarium was on a table-land, elevated between 5,000 and 6,000 feet above the plains, with climate so cold, that for 3 months in the year the rivulets were, in the mornings, fringed with ice, and the ground frequently covered with snow[134]. The place was generally approved of, not only because of its merits as a sanatory station, but also as a likely place to facilitate a friendly intercourse with the new neighbours. Moreover, it was expected to lead to the improvement of the roads and tracts of a rugged country, so far little known to Europeans. 

The sick station, built at Scott’s recommendation at Nongkhlao, was burnt down by the Cassyas just before the commencement of the Sanatarium at Churra Poonjee.

By May 1828, 18 months after the arrival of the British, Nongkhlao showed a lot of improvement, a road had been constructed from Assam, bridges had been built, various European fruit trees had been planted, and a breeding establishment set up[135]. A bungalow had been constructed in Nongkhlao, and prisoners were employed in the construction of the road, and a guard brought up to take care of them, which perhaps the Cassyas did not like. Shortly afterwards on 4 April 1829, there was an attack on the survey party engaged by the British in laying out the road, resulting in the massacre of two British officers, Lieutenants Bedingfield and Burlton, and between 50-60 of their servants and followers, at Nongkhlao. This led to the outbreak of the First Anglo-Khasi war (1829-1833).  

In about 1832, Jacob Tomlin extended his rambles across the hills to Nungklow, which was situated on the northern verge of these hills[136]. From here, he had a splendid and extensive view of the fine expansive valley of Assam and the magnificent Berhamputur wending its way, and could trace its silvery course 100 miles away. Beyond it rose the Bhutan hills, and still further back he could faintly discern the snowy ridge of the Himalayas. 

13 January 1833, Teerut Sing surrendered to the British. On 29 March 1834, his nephew, Rujun Sing, was installed by Captain Jenkins, the Agent to the Governor General at Nungklow, on the following conditions[137], which had been previously prepared and submitted for approval of Government by Mr. T.C. Robertson, the preceding Agent:

1^st. – “That the British Government shall have a right to carry a road, in whatsoever direction it may think proper, across the whole extent of country lying between Churra and the plains of Assam”.

2^nd. – “That the British Government shall be at liberty to construct bridges, and to erect halting bungalows, stockades, guardrooms or store-houses, at any point along this line of road.”

3^rd. – “That the Rajah and his Muntrees shall engage to furnish as many workmen as shall be required to assist in the completion and keeping in repair, of  roads and other works, above detailed”.

4^th. – “That the Rajah and his Muntrees shall engage to furnish, on being paid for the same, the undermentioned articles for the use of any establishment which Government may set on foot at any place within the country ceded to him: timber, stone, lime, fire-wood for building, and such other articles as may be procurable in the country...”

Bur Manick, the Syiem of Moleem, was levied a fine of Rs. 5,000. The agreement was to pay Rs.1,000 immediately, and constructing for the remainder a good road from Churra, via Moleem to Myrung.

In 1835, William Griffith commented that after Myrung, one could speak much less in favour of these hills[138].  Nunklow was a pretty spot, and commanded a really magnificent view of the Himalayas, of the Bootan mountains, and of the plains of Assam. Altogether this view was the finest that he had ever seen. Even though the route there was pretty, and not very tiring, he did not like Nunklow. He mentioned that Nunklow was a station of some fine trees, among which oaks were in abundance and the pine was in fine order, but not large.  He noted that much more cultivation was carried on in this portion of the hills than elsewhere, and paddy was cultivated to some extent. 

  

According to him, the temperature was much warmer, and the air not as bracing as that of Myrung.  At this place the flora resembled that of the lower Himalayas more than any other place he had seen so far in his journey.  The march from Nunklow to Nowgong (not the present day town in Assam, but a village at the northern foot hills) was very long, and, as he started late, owing partly to mismanagement and partly to the want of coolies, he was quite happy when night fell, while still in the jungle. 

The descent commenced at Nunklow and was very sudden. The valley, on the brink of which it was situated, was about 2,000 feet deep.  It was in this valley that he witnessed the finest pines. Even here they did not attain a height greater than 60 feet, with a diameter between 12-18 inches. A Mr. Brown of the Sylhet Light Infantry informed him that many would make fine spars. He however disagreed with Mr. Cracroft's somewhat overdone description of these firs in one of the Journals of the Asiatic Society.

In 1844, Henry Yule observed that Nungklow was some 10 miles north-east of the Kalung rock, and from there the Kassiah Hills began to slope towards the valley of Assam[139]. He could not imagine any scene more lovely than that which presented itself, from this place. In the foreground sloping from the verge was a hanging forest of very varied vegetation, where wild plantains and other tropical plants were seen side by side with the pine of these hills. These pines at first appeared small and stunted about 14 miles north of Cherra, but attained its greatest height and girth in this forest. He goes on to add:

“Lower down are hills still beautifully wooded or green with gigantic grass. These gradually sink into the valley of Assam which, intersected by the silver thread of the Brahmapootra, stretches away for 70 miles to the dark Bhootan hills, behind which tower the eternal Himalaya snows. To the east as far as eye can see rise range upon range of blue hills till they fade in the distant horizon.

Here at day break a strange and beautiful sight may now and then be seen. A dense mist fills the valley to the very brink, which then looks like the wooded shore of a pale waveless sea stretching into space. Suddenly out of the still depths rise, as if by magic, islands of silver tinged with rose colour and gold, as the first beams of the rising sun kiss the snowy peaks of the, till then, invisible Himalaya”.

The distance from Myrung to Nunklow was 10 miles, along an excellent road[140]. In 1850, Hooker noted that the descent was at first sudden, beyond which the country was undulating, interspersed with jungle (of low trees, chiefly oaks) and marshes, with much rice cultivation. Grasses were exceedingly numerous and Hooker gathered 50 kinds - 4 were cultivated, namely sugar-cane, rice, Job’s tears, and maize. Most of the others were not so well suited to pasturage as those of higher localities. Dwarf Phoenix palms occurred by the roadside at 5,000 feet elevation.

Nunklow was placed at the northern extremity of a broad spur that over-hangs the valley of the Burrampooter river, 30 miles distant. The descent from it was very rapid, and beyond it none of the many spurs thrown out by the Khasia attained more than 1,000 feet elevation. The range did not present so abrupt a face to the Burrampooter as it did to the Jheels in the Sylhet plains.

The elevation of the bungalow was 4,688 feet and the climate being hot, it swarmed with mosquitos, fleas, and rats[141]. It commanded a superb view to the north, of the Himalayan snows, of the Burrampooter, and intervening malarious Terai forest, and to the south, of the undulating Khasia, with Kollong rock bearing south-west. All the hills between here and Myrung looked from Nunklow better wooded than they did from Myrung, in consequence of the slopes exposed to the south being bare of forest.

Wild animals were very abundant here, though extremely rare on the higher part of the Khasia range[142]. Tigers, however, and bears, ascended to Nunklow. Hooker saw troops of wild dogs, deer, and immense quantities of the droppings of the wild elephant - an animal considered in Assam dangerous to meet, whereas in other parts of India it is not dreaded till provoked.

Trees and brushwood often concealed the spaces between these fragments, and afford dens for bears and leopards, into which man could follow them. In a pensive moment, he remarked:

“Sitting in the cool evenings on one of these great blocks, and watching the Himalayan glaciers glowing with the rays of sunset, appearing to change in form and dimensions with the falling shadows, it was impossible to refrain from speculating on the possibility of these great boulders heaped on the Himalayan-ward face of the Khasia range, having been transported hither by ice at some former period”.

In 1854, Thomas Oldham confirmed that from Myrung to the next bungalow at Nongklaw the distance was about 10 miles, along an excellent road over an undulating country. The barrenness was greatly relieved by the presence of some noble firs, which crowned the summit of the knolls, and were scattered over all the hollows which lay between the different heights[143].

None of the hills beyond Nongklaw attained an elevation of more than 1,000 feet, and these were for the most part very thickly wooded. He was quite taken in by the view:

“The view Northwards from Nongklaw, in the early morning, is like a scene in cloudland, with its mysteries of beauty that defy the skill of the painter. An ocean of mist, as smooth as a chalcedony, as soft and white as the down of the eider duck's breast, lies over the whole lower world, with only an occasional mountain top visible like a verdant wooded isle, rich in beauty and glory”.

In 1865, on reaching Nunklow, a village 8-9 miles from Myrung, James Thornton found that a steep descent lay before him, as the whole range of hills appeared to sink abruptly at this point to a much lower level[144]. He halted at this place and visited a monument erected close by to the memory of Lieutenants Bedingfeld and Burlton, of the Bengal Artillery, who were murdered by the Khasias at Nunklow in 1829, and of Assistant-Surgeon Beadon, who was killed in action near Myrung the same year. A splendid view of the Bhootan Himalaya was obtained from the vicinity of Nunklow. The snow-clad mountain chain was seen stretching east and west for a great distance, and far away to the east were three gigantic pyramidal mountains which were apparently far loftier than the rest of the snowy range.

On or about 1866, Pollock reported that at Nungklow there were a good many pheasants, and a few barking-deer. Here were the graves of two officers attacked and killed by the Cossyahs many years before as they were travelling to Cherra Ponjee[145]. Here also saw a cinchona plantation (presumably for the production of quinine), but the young trees did not appear to make much progress.

It is to be noted that in 1904, in connection with the Durbar held in Delhi, on the occasion of the Proclamation of His Majesty King Edward VII as Emperor of India, the King of Khadsawphra[146], U Kinesing, was invited and honoured with the title of Rajah[147].