3.2 Sanatarium to “Eat the Europe air”

3.2      Sanatarium to “Eat the Europe air”

On 1 November 1826, a delegation led by David Scott started for the Cassya Hills. There was no regular road at that time, and the party experienced considerable difficulty in making their way across the woody hills, which lay between Gowahatty and Nongkhlao, a distance of some 96 kilometres.
The route most likely taken by the party was from Gowahatty to Phulbari, followed by Ranee (Godam), Moirapur (tea garden of the Lower Assam Company), Jyrung (a petty State in the Cassya Hills), Mossia, across the Borpanee river, Oomloor and finally Nongkhlao.

He tried hard to make this journey a bit easier. Being a stout man, weighing about 96 kilos, it was difficult for him to climb these almost perpendicular heights. So to counter this, he had prepared a pair of braces which went round his body. To these were attached two or more muscular Cassyas, who marched ahead, and pulling with all their strength, Scott was able to climb with relative ease. At other times, he made a powerful Toorkie horse, remarkably quiet, go on before him, and rolling the hair of the tail round his hands, it tugged him up the hill.

Emerging from the hot muggy plains, the party was delighted to see the enchanting verdure of these hills, and breathed their pure and balmy atmosphere:

“Oh, there is sweetness in the mountain air, And life, which bloated ease can never hope to share.”

The atmosphere was unusually clear, and looking across the valley, the snowy ranges of the Himalayas could be seen in all its glory. The plains of Assam lay below, enveloped in a dense haze, penetrated in places by bright gleams of sunshine - the silvery Brahmaputra winding gently to the sea[1].

The party arrived in the evening at Nongkhlao – a small village, perched on top of a hill. The aspect of the country reminded the British of the beautiful sheep hills in the south of Scotland.

The following day, the Rajah summoned the whole of his people, and those of the adjacent States. Four or five days later, a meeting of the Cassya Parliament took place. Utterly ignorant of the habits and manners of these people, the British were astonished to see some 500 or 600 warriors bounding along the hills, armed with two-handed swords, bows, and quivers, and arrayed in the colourful garb of the Cassyas, resembling the Roman Toga.

Their sudden appearance on the top of these beautiful hills, gave wonderful effect to the scenery around. A circle having been formed, and the various members of the assembly arranged according to their rank, the Rajah proceeded to explain the object of the meeting, and requested the different orators to express their sentiments on the proposition by the Company.

The leading orator immediately commenced a long harangue in condemnation of the proposal. His expressed his passion through continuous speech and frequent gesticulation. This was replied to by an orator of the Rajah's party. This process continued until evening. The British were astonished at the order and decorum which characterised these debates. There were no shouts of exultation, nor indecent attempts to put down the orator of the opposite party. On the contrary, every speaker was fairly heard out. The debates of the Cassya Parliament were conducted with such dignity of manner as to rival some of the debates conducted in Britain.

Initially the Cassya Government appeared to be a widely extended aristocracy, but later it proved to be more Republican in nature. Scott was of the view that the Rajah, and the leading men, possessing very little control over the people. As it grew dark, and the debate not yet concluded, he grew rather impatient.

As he was accustomed with the ways of the neighbouring Garo tribe, he ordered a dozen bottles of rum to be sent up the hill in the hope of putting an end to it. The liquor was returned with a message that they would not drink spirits until they had come to a determination. The next morning the debate resumed and it was continued throughout the day, and closed at midnight - in favour of the proposition of the Company.

Accordingly, on 3 November 1826, an Agreement was signed between Scott and Tirot. By this Agreement, Nongkhlaw voluntarily agreed to become subject to the Company and under the protection of the English. The Syiem agreed to give a free passage for troops through his country to go and come between Assam and Sylhet. The Syiem agreed to furnish materials for the construction of a road through his territories, receiving payment for the sum and after its completion to adopt such measures as might be necessary to help it in repair.

Delighted with the climate, Scott immediately commenced another negotiation for permission to rent a piece of land upon which a bungalow was to be built, to “eat the Europe air” as it was phrased. This, after considerable opposition, was granted. After the negotiations were finalised, a grand banquet was given by Scott, to the principal leaders of the Cassyas. A huge cauldron, which he had brought with him was filled with pork, chicken and fish.

When the feast was ready, to banish distrust, the British party commenced tasting the principal dishes. Confidence was immediately established, and copious amounts of spirits were drunk in honour of this new alliance. Before the assembly dispersed, contests of archery took place between the men of the different villages, and the victors were carried home in triumph. They were surrounded by the villagers, singing and dancing, as they wound their way over the adjacent hills.

On this first visit to Nongkhlao, the impression of the British were decidedly in favour of the Cassyas, who appeared to be a simple, honest, brave, and independent people. During his short stay, Scott's mind was ardently employed in schemes for the improvement of the Cassya’s country. Various fruit trees were requested from the Company Headquarters in Calcutta.

Reaching the plains, Scott at once ordered a survey of the road under the supervision of soldiers. In 1826 fresh activities were seen in the construction. The road started from Rani Kudam (Godam) in Nongwah Syiemship and curved westward to Jirang from where it took an abrupt eastward bend to Nongkhlaw and emerged into Sohiong. Then it curved southward to Sohrarim and then to Sohra and still southward across the southern slopes, and terminated at Chatak in Sylhet District.

When there was unanimity of opinion in favour of the British, the latter constructed a bungalow with quite a good number of workers. The construction of the road was immediately taken up. Lieutenants Beddingfield and Burlton were posted to supervise the construction work at Nongkhlaw. Tirot helped in supplying materials for the work. Scott meanwhile was attracted by the royal behaviour of Tirot and his mother.

Cattle were brought in to improve the local breed, roads were planned, and bridges were ordered to be constructed. Unfortunately, as things would turn out later, this very zeal brought about his premature death. One day he had gone to select a proper place for a bridge and, towards the evening, found that he had to ascend a mountain 2,000 feet high, before getting home. This over exertion brought on a palpitation of the heart, and difficulty of breathing.

A small station with residential quarters was established at Nongkhlaw. Near the market and the royal residence, a company of sepoys was placed to supervise the construction. At the beginning things were amicably enough. Tirot sent volunteers and continued to make adequate provisions for the construction. Ka Ksan Syiem was very friendly and bore a special affection for Scott.

In the next 18 months (by May 1828), Nongkhlao showed remarkable improvement. A road had been constructed from Assam, bridges had been built, various European fruit trees had been planted, and a breeding establishment was set up. For a time, everything seemed to go well - relations between the resident British Officers at Nongkhaw, Lieutenants Bedingfield and Burlton apparently could not have been better. However, some of these improvements must have been irksome to the Cassyas. Everything pointed to a permanent stay - a bungalow had been constructed, prisoners were employed on the road, and a guard brought up to take care of them, which perhaps the Cassyas did not like. The seeds of discontent were sown.

At this time, Scott was remarkably respectful towards the Cassyas. They were treated on an equal footing, indeed, they took greater liberties than were allowed in that State. They barged into his most private apartment, and exacted exorbitant prices for goods, which were readily paid. No restriction of their liberties had taken place, nor had any pecuniary burden been imposed upon them.

An impartial spectator would have inferred, that the Cassyas were sensible how much they had benefitted from their connection with the Company, in improved roads, an increased demand for their produce, the introduction of useful vegetables, vaccination, schools etc. So ardent was his desire to benefit the Cassyas, that he carried up with him 2 Bhutias for the purpose of teaching the Cassyas the mode of agriculture practised by the Bhutias and Chinese, in cultivating their mountains. Unfortunately the Cassya’s dislike of innovation defeated the scheme.

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[1] Memoir of the late David Scott, Esq., Agent to the Governor General, on the North-East frontier of Bengal and the Commissioner of Revenue and Circuit in Assam – 1832, pg.34.