Saturday, 2 February 2013

Gurkhas of Shillong


Gurkhas of Shillong

The entry of the Gurkhas in Shillong started with the transfer of the Military in 1867 - when the 44th Regiment moved into their new quarters in the Cantonment. Since the British yearned for the Gurkha troops, they took foremost care for the welfare of the Gurkhas and this led to the establishment of Gurkha village in Shillong.


The start of Gurkha settlement around the Cantonment in Shillong is clear from the corresponding letters/files of the British Officials such as Colonel H. M. Evans, Officer Commanding the 43rd Regiment, the Brigadier General Assam District, the Deputy Commissioner Khasi and Jaintia Hills, and the Secretary of the Chief Commissioner of Assam and the Agreement made with the Siem of Mylliem began with Gurkha army pensioners of the 44th Regiment later designated the 1st Battalion of the 8th Gurkha Rifles.

The history of the Gurkha settlement in Shillong can also be asserted from the documentary and material evidences found from the family members of the Gurkhas settled in and around Shillong such as the Tomb Epithet of Captain Kalu Thapa which is in the compound of Military Hospital area near the MES water pump house; the Tomb Epithet of Captain Birbal Nagarkoty, Sardar Bahadur, OBI enlisted 1876, at the Gurkha graveyard Barapather which states that he was awarded the Order of British India while he was a Jemadar for his exploits at Lang Thobal in Manipur when the Manipuri rebellion took place[1].

The Gurkhas settlers of Shillong in the initial stages of British administrative formation were thus all linked to the 8th Gurkha Rifles. They were part of the British defensive set up and some of the families have been living in Shillong for at least five generations. One such family is that of Captain Gambir Singh Lama, Sardar Bahadur, OBI. A part of the locality behind the Lumdiengjri Police Station in Shillong is known as Lama Villa in his honour.

The Gurkha settlement in the initial stage of settlement basically started in the northern pheriphery of the Cantonment Gorkha lines which significantly is the present day area of Jhalupara, Paltan Bazar, Barapather and Mawprem as is evident from its location[2], but in course of time the Gurkha settlement in Shillong spread and extended to other areas besides that of initial settlement as Shillong gradually expanded.

Shillong in 1867 could not have shown any resemblance to the charming Cantonment and Civil Station known to so many. Captain Kalu Thapa, who marched into Shillong with the 44th (Sylhet) Regiment of Bengal Native (Light) Infantry, when asked what it was in those days, replied "there wasn't a rat there”. 

During 1867-68, at Shillong, three barracks for single and four for married men had been nearly completed[3]. Two other barracks were in progress. A shed for 25 mules had been constructed, and 12 huts for the Drivers of the Eurasian Battery of Artillery (this was a mule battery) were also completed. Out-offices had been built for the Native Infantry Hospital. It appears that the work was afterwards stopped as the continuance of the Eurasian Battery of Artillery at Shillong was doubtful.  

At that time, a General Nuthall was commanding the troops in Shillong. The Lieutenant-Governor of the Bengal Presidency, Sir William Grey (1866–1871), was on tour in July 1867 and visited the station of Shillong amongst other places. In relation to the infrastructure, during 1867-68, the Courthouse of the Deputy Commissioner of Shillong (Yeodo) was completed. By 1867-68, the road from Shillong to Gowhatty via Burneehat (Birney Haut Bridle Road) had been improved. The Shillong Cart Road (Brigg’s Trace) was from Marbusoo to Gowhatty (93 miles). Work had commenced in March 1863 at a cost of Rs. 4.38 Lakhs. However, in 1867 no work had been done on this road, as its abandonment was under consideration. 

Pollock describes the state of affairs in 1867[4]:

 “In July 1867 I took my wife and a lady friend of hers up to Shillong, and left them there. There was scarcely the vestige of a road in those days; we had to deposit the money for coolies impressed to carry goods into the Cutcherie, and many of our loads were deposited in the jungles and the coolies fled, we being heavily the losers, but no redress was to be got.”
In another version[5], Pollock gives the following account:
“In July 1867 I visited Shillong. There was no road worthy of the name then, and the coolies we had to carry up our stores etc. threw them about the jungles and bolted, and inflicted great loss on us. As I had work to do on the plains, I left my family there and returned to Gowhatty, not very favourably impressed with the place, for I thought it was not worth the bother and expense we were put to get there.” 

By all accounts Golam Hyder Mollah and Kasimuddin Mollah appear to be the ‘Rockefellers of Shillong’, preceding the Marwaris and Sindhis. They were pioneers in the world of transport. The first Tonga or pony cart service side by side with bullock carts was started on 6 November 1867. It was recognized by the Government of Assam Division through an Agreement on 11 July 1868.  

While the former covered the distance in nine to ten hours every day, the latter took three days for the two way journey. The services continued till 1911. The Tonga Service was called Shillong-Guwahati Daily Passenger Service. The bullock carts numbering 500 to 600 ferried not only goods but also passengers. Passengers were also carried in baskets.

The bullock carts were assembled at a place somewhere near Motphran and Garikhana on the outskirts of Iewduh[6]. Every morning, a bugle was sounded to announce to the residents of Shillong, that the bullock cart was about to start its journey. The same bullocks were not used for the entire journey from Shillong to Guwahati, rather the journey had to be done by relays.

The first set of bullocks were let off to take rest at a distance of about 5 kilometres or so and a new set would take their place. And so it continued till they reached their destination. Elephants were used for some British officers to escort the officers on their long tours down to the plains of Assam which took them at least one month or sometimes more. 

There was a Cinchona garden (presumably for the production of quinine) at Nunklow which was closed during 1867-68, and orders were given to remove the establishment to Shillong. The establishment of a small nursery at the Khasia Hills was sanctioned by Government early in 1867[7]. The nursery was intended only for raising plants of Chinchona for distribution among the tea planters in Assam. One of the European gardeners from the Darjeeling plantation was sent, in February 1867, in charge of the plants from Darjeeling, with which the cultivation was to be commenced. He reached Shillong at the end of March 1867, and early in May 1867 the cultivation was commenced near the Dak Bungalow of Nunklow. 

The present Shillong was covered at that time by deep forests surrounded by populous villages, like Laban and Mawkhar[8]. Jungles were cut, some allotments were made to Europeans and Eurasians in the core areas. The migrant business people were allotted land in what is now known as Police Bazar. 

James Thornton who retired as the Deputy Surgeon General of the Bengal Medical Service was in Shillong during 1867-1869 and from him we receive a greater insight of the period. In 1867 it was decided to move the 44th (Sylhet) Regiment of Bengal Native (Light) Infantry from Cherra Poonjee to Shillong, which had already been selected as a new site for the Civil Station, and had been occupied for some time by the Chief Civil Officer and his subordinates[9] 

The site chosen for the new Station was in the centre of the Khasia Hills, about 30 miles north and a little east of Cherra, and consisted of a series of undulating hills thickly covered with pine trees. The elevation was about 4,900 feet, and to the south and west extended a range over 6,000 feet high, which culminated at its western end in Shillong Hill (this appears to be a more apt description rather than ‘Shillong Peak’), 6,660 feet high.  

According to Thornton, the view from this summit was truly magnificent, as fully 30,000 square miles of country could be seen, from the distant peaks of the Himalaya Mountains in the north to the delta of the Ganges in the south-west, and from the Garrow Hills in the west to those of Northern Cachar on the east. The country lying between Moflong and Shillong (what we now know as ‘Upper Shillong’) was a grassy undulating plateau about 6,000 feet high, with scattered pine trees here and there, and rhododendrons on the banks of the numerous streams flowing down the hollows between the hills. At a distance of about a mile and a half from Shillong (‘Upper Shillong’) the country subsided rather abruptly, and a long descent led down to the Station more than 1,000 feet below.  

Thornton mentions that the right wing of the Regiment left for Shillong in February 1867 and the left wing and the artillery followed in October 1867. They all chose suitable sites at the new Station, and commenced house building with as little delay as possible. Having received orders to remain at Cherra for the present with the left wing of the Regiment and the Eurasian Battery of Artillery, Thornton had to commit the building of his new house at Shillong to Pyrbad Sing, his Khasia servant. Thornton went over from time to time to see the progress of the work. During this time, owing to the paucity of British officers at Cherra, Thornton was frequently put on court martial duty for the trial of men of the Eurasian Battery of Artillery, who were treated as British soldiers. He mentions this merely to show the various duties which Indian medical officers were sometimes called upon to perform.  

In June 1867 Thornton was ordered to Shillong, and in July 1867 his wife and children joined him there. Their house was finished before the end of 1867, and by that time they were very comfortably settled at the new Station. Broad roads, as nearly level as possible, had been made throughout the Station, many private houses had been built, and the courts of justice, barracks for the troops, regimental and battery hospitals, and various other public buildings were being constructed.  

Thornton reported that gardens were started by many of the residents and were generally very successful. Geranium, fuchsia, salvia, petunia, heliotrope, hydrangia, and other flowers too numerous to mention, grew luxuriantly and flowered freely in the open air, where they could be safely left all the year round owing to the mildness of the climate and the comparatively moderate amount of rain. The rainfall at Shillong was much lesser than that of Cherra, indeed it amounted to less than 100 inches in the year. This extraordinary difference was probably due to the clouds having previously parted with most of their rain along the southern border of the Khasia Hills, and on the lofty range of hills to the south of the Station.  

Owing to this greatly diminished rainfall there were many more fine days at Shillong than at Cherra, and the temperature at the former in the hot season was considerably higher than at the latter. In Thornton’s view, the country in the vicinity of Shillong was in some parts extremely pretty, though not on the grand scale of the scenery at Cherra. Two small rivers (the Umshirpi and Umkhrah) ran through the Station, and at a short distance to the north they formed two beautiful waterfalls (the Beadon & Bishop Falls), one being an unbroken fall of about 300 feet, while the other consisted of several successive waterfalls of smaller depth.  

During their residence in the Khasia Hills, both at Cherra Poonjee and at Shillong, they frequently experienced earthquakes which were usually slight, but occasionally rather severe. In 1869, not long after his departure from Shillong, an earthquake (the Cachar Earthquake) of more than ordinary violence occurred, which cracked the walls of some of the houses and threw down the Regimental magazine.  

Thornton observed that it was a curious that earthquakes, which were rarely, if ever, felt in the plains of India, were comparatively frequent on both the north-eastern and the north-western frontier. Thornton surmised that the earthquakes in the north-eastern frontier were probably due, as Sir Joseph Hooker speculated, to the volcanic forces operating in the Bay of Bengal and the Malay Peninsula.  

Thornton reported that an excellent cricket ground (the present Garrison Ground) had been formed on the smooth and level floor of a valley within the boundaries of the Station, and cricket was played several times a week by the officers and men of the 44th (Sylhet) Regiment of Bengal Native (Light) Infantry and the Eurasian Battery of Artillery. The Goorkhas were very fond of games like cricket and football, and sometimes excelled in them. He had seen one of these sturdy little hillmen score thirty runs against good bowling without giving a chance.  

The men of the battery were Eurasians of every shade, some as fair as any European, and others darker than most natives. Several of these men were keen cricketers, and always took part in the matches. In Thornton’s view, it was a pity that this battery and a Regiment recruited from the same class of men could not be retained on the strength of the Indian Army, as employment was thus provided for a considerable number of Eurasians, who otherwise would probably have been wandering about the country in a state of destitution, as so many persons of that class did then.  

Thornton never served with the Eurasian Regiment, and therefore could not comment on their military efficiency. But he was in medical charge of the Eurasian Battery of Artillery for several years, and witnessed their behaviour in two campaigns, and he noted that they were most efficient and excellent soldiers both in peace and in war. Unfortunately these troops were expensive as they were treated as British soldiers in most respects, and cost almost as much. So first the Regiment, and subsequently the Battery, were disbanded, and the experiment of employing Eurasians as soldiers of the Indian Army was discontinued. Interestingly, a decade later they would be accused of vandalising monoliths in Iewduh. 

In 1868, having completed 12 years' service, Thornton was promoted to the rank of Surgeon (with the relative rank of Major), and as his health had become somewhat impaired from the hardships and privations of several years of active service in the field, he applied for 2 years' furlough[10] to England, to which he was entitled, provided that his services could he dispensed with. While his furlough application was pending, they disposed of their houses, furniture, and all superfluous effects, and they made all necessary preparations for the journey to England.  

They had decided to proceed by the Cape route, which, previous to the opening of the Suez Canal, was considerably cheaper than the overland route by Suez and Alexandria. After much delay, his furlongh was granted and his successor appointed, and in October 1868 they left Shillong for Calcutta, travelling by way of Moflong to Cherra, where they descended into the plains and went on by boat to Chattuck.



[1]Ibid.


[2]Ibid.


[3]Annual Report on the Administration of the Bengal Presidency for 1867-68.


[4]Wild sports of Burma and Assam (1900), Colonel Fitz William Pollock, Late Staff Corps, and W. S, Thom, Assistant District Superintendant of Police, Burma. Hurst and Blackett Limited, London,1900.University of California. Pg.438.


[5]Sport in British Burmah, Assam, and the Cassyah and Jyntiah hills. with notes of sport in the hilly districts of the northern division, Madras Presidency, indicating the best localities in those countries for sport, with natural history notes, illustrations of the people, scenery, and game, together with maps to guide the traveller or sportsman, and hints on weapons, fishing-tackle, etc., best suited for killing game met with in those provinces. Volume 2. Lieutenant Colonel Fitz William Thomas Pollock, Chapman and Hall, London, 1879. Harvard University.Pg.90.


[6]Philemon, E. P.  1995,  Cherrapunjee : the arena of rain : a history and guide to Sohra & Shillong/E.P. Philemon  Spectrum Publications, Guwahati.


[7]Journal of botany, British and foreign, Berthold Seemann, L.Reeve and Co., London, 1869.



[8] Sengupta, Sutapa. & Dhar, Bibhash. & North-East India Council for Social Science Research. 2004, Shillong: a tribal town in transition / editors, Sutapa Sengupta, Bibhas Dhar  Reliance Pub. House, New Delhi:


[9]Memories of seven campaigns, James Howard Thornton, Archibald Constable and Co, Westminster, 1895 (covering the period 1862-69), University of Boston.


[10]A temporary leave of absence from employment or duty in the armed services.

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