5. Brigg's Trace

The country lying between Gowhatty and the main axis of the Cossyah Hills, of which Shillong is the crowning height, was only known to Europeans along the Nunklow hill-path[1] (reference to Scott’s Road). This was held in such bad repute that those who ventured along it did so as fast as practicable, and considered themselves fortunate if they escaped the malarial fever which persisted throughout the year.

Brigg’s Trace[2] was the second bridle path made by the British during 1863-64 to the east of the old hill path and to the west of the present motorable road and it emerged at Marbisu, a village 19 kilometres from Shillong on the Shillong-Mawphlang Road. From here it branched to Shillong and to Laitlyngkot. Unfortunately, like Scott’s Road, Brigg’s Trace was later abandoned as well. 

1. Bengali Khasis

1.  Bengali Khasis

 and the first boundaries of Bangladesh

The watershed events that marked the production of a modern boundary between present day Sylhet and Meghalaya started way back in the 1780s. There were two distinct sets of violent conflicts on Sylhet’s northern frontiers[1]. According to Ludden, both escalated during the 1787 famine and ended abruptly in 1790. Though connected, they had different origins and distinct implications. They fell on either side of the boundary that would separate the later histories of Sylhet and Meghalaya (specifically Khasi and Jaintia Hills).

2. Lives of the Lindsays

2.  The Cusseahs

(native Tartars)

In the spring of 1772, an eighteen year old Scotsman, Robert Lindsay, embarked for India on board the East Indiamen - Prince of Wales[1]. He landed in Calcutta in September 1772 and was soon appointed as an Assistant to the Accomptant[2] General in the Revenue Department.

3. History of the Khasis

3.  History of the Khasis

(1824 to pre-Shillong)

An important fallout of the interaction between the Khasis and the plains people (including the plains people of Kamrup) in the 18^th Century is the existence of a great number of clans with the name dkhar, (i.e. plains people) or in its short form 'khar, usually prefixed[1].

3.1 David Scott

3.1 David  Scott 

There were several reasons for the Company to show interest in the Khasi Hills. The English felt the need for Dak (postal service) from Sylhet to Assam through the Hills. They also felt the need for linking the two valleys through the hills for trading and commercial purposes. The cool and salubrious climate of the hills attracted the attention of David Scott and other officers.

3.2 Sanatarium to “Eat the Europe air”

3.2      Sanatarium to “Eat the Europe air”

On 1 November 1826, a delegation led by David Scott started for the Cassya Hills. There was no regular road at that time, and the party experienced considerable difficulty in making their way across the woody hills, which lay between Gowahatty and Nongkhlao, a distance of some 96 kilometres.

3.3 First Anglo-Khasi War

3.3      First Anglo-Khasi War

However, over time an undercurrent of dissatisfaction set in. Tirot suspected that the Company was making a scheme of territorial expansion. The high handedness of the military at Nongkhlaw and their harsh treatment of the inhabitants, made the people lose confidence in Scott.

3.4 Massacre at Nongkhlao

3.4      Massacre at Nongkhlao

About 400-500 Cassyahs and Garrows surrounded the house and Lieutenant Bedingfield went out amongst them unarmed to see what they wanted. They immediately seized him and after tying his hands behind his back and cutting the tendons of his legs, commenced shooting at him with their arrows.

3.5 Ostrich Hill

3.5      Ostrich Hill

Not far from Nongkhlao there was a beautiful spot known by the name of Ostrich Hill, and on its summit stood a humble Monument bearing an inscription:

 Multis ille bonis fleblis occidit, Nulli fledilior mihi

3.6 Bengalee chupprassee

3.6      Bengalee chupprassee

The cause of the massacre was attributed to the false speech of a Bengalee chupprassee[1], who in a dispute with the Cassyas, prior to Scott's coming up to Nongkhlao, had threatened them with his master's vengeance.

3.7 Jungle Fever/Maisma Country

3.7      Jungle Fever/Maisma Country

There was great difficulty in providing supplies for the troops at this time, and as there was no urgency for their services, Captain Urquhart's detachment was directed to return to Assam, making a detour by Ramree.

3.8 Close encounters with Outlaws

3.8      Close encounters with Outlaws

In September 1829, Scott returned to Nongkhlao from Sylhet[1]. At that time he was suffering considerably from a health complaint, and in low spirits from the loss of three of his most close friends - Lieutenants Bedingfield, Burlton, and Dr. Beadon, who had fallen to the Cassyas within the last four months.

3.9 Sanitarium

3.9      Sanitarium

The climate of the hills being similar to that of Europe attracted the attention of the British as they were of the view that it would be best suited for a sanatorium. Scott suggested establishing a Convalescent Station in the Khasi Hills, as it would be beneficial to the European constitution throughout the year.

3.10 Monbot

3.10     Monbot

The principal obstacle to the pacification of the country had been the heroic conduct of a Cassya leader named Monbot. Born in the ignoble condition of a slave to Tirot, he had risen by his undaunted spirit, to the chief command. Foremost in every fight, although often discomfited, and once severely wounded, he had always breathed the same spirit of defiance, and had proudly expressed his determination never to submit to the British Government.

3.11 Ensign David Hay Brodie

3.11     Ensign David Hay Brodie

Scott came up with novel methods to pursue the Cassyas and would have followed it up, if not for his health condition. It so happened, that a very intelligent young officer, Brodie, of the 13th Native Infantry heard Scott on one of these occasions. Being adventurous, the idea fired his mind, and he immediately proposed a plan which was adopted.

3.12 Second Anglo-Khasi War

3.12     Second Anglo-Khasi War

In spite of what the Company had accomplished, the tumult of the war had not yet been entirely silenced. Rebellions still flared up even after Tirot's imprisonment and a few Syiems resisted against pressure applied by the Company.

Introduction

Shillong – Tales from Moolem Poonjee

[Sesquicentennial (1866-2016)]

 

Shillong was born in the twilight of 28 April 1866 and therefore, 28 April 2016 is the Sesquicentennial (150 years) of its formation by the British. This is not a historical account, rather it is my humble tribute to the hill station where I was born on 28 February 1968, by the side of the Umshirpi, in the humble Red Cross Hospital.

How did it all begin?

How did it all begin?

 

To answer this we need to delve into Khasi legend. Major Philip Richard Thornhagh Gurdon was the Deputy Commissioner of Eastern Bengal and Assam Commission, and Superintendent of Ethnography in Assam. His 1906 monogram, The Khasis, provides an authoritative account of the Khasi people.

Khasi legend

Khasi legend

The Syiem of Shillong is a very great and powerful Chief in the Khasi Hills[1]. He is generally known throughout the Khasi Hills as the ‘god king’. By the term ‘god king’ is meant that god has been pleased to give over to him the largest portion of the Khasi country, i.e. the Kingdom of Shillong, to rule. There is great uncertainty about the origin of these ‘god kings’.

A bit of history

A bit of history

Our first knowledge of the Khasi Hills dates from the time when the East India Company acquired the Diwani of Bengal in 1765[1]. The adjoining District of Sylhet was included in that grant, but as the hill men had never acknowledged any subjection to the Muhammadans, so they still remained absolutely independent of the British power.

The quest for a Sanatorium

The quest for a Sanatorium

 

There were two main reasons why the Company came to the Khasi Hills in the first place – one was the need to connect the Brahmaputra valley and the Surma valley by road, the other was to construct a Sanatorium for European troops and invalids.

The hard sell for Shillong

The hard sell for Shillong

By this time, Political Agents, geologists and botanists were suggesting the shifting of the District Head Quarters to the place now known as Upper Shillong or any other suitable site in the vicinity which would be more advantageous for communication[1].

Acquiring land for Shillong

Acquiring land for Shillong

It was Major Rowlatt who actually started the process of acquiring land for the proposed station of Shillong[1]. He entered into Agreements with individual proprietors (or Ry Kynti owners) for purchase of an extensive tract, which he called “a gentle undulating plateau”.

The formation of Shillong

The formation of Shillong

In the 1862-63 Annual Report on the Administration of the Bengal Presidency, the Lieutenant Governor, Sir Cecil Beadon, had authorised the transfer of the Civil Station of the Cossyah and Jynteah Hills from Cherra to Shillong, in the territory of the Rajah of Moleem, and the question of establishing a Sanatorium and a Military Cantonment in that locality awaited the decision of the Government of India[1].

The Capital of Assam

The Capital of Assam

 

In 1866 the military administration was shifted from Gauhati and a Cantonment was established. During 1866-1867, Colonel Hopkinson pleaded with the higher authorities for transfer of the Divisional Head Quarters from Gauhati to Shillong on political, strategic and climatic grounds[1]. But the matter remained undecided till 1874.

The lure of Shillong

The lure of Shillong

The term “Khasi” may have been first and then generally applied to the hill tribe by people of Bengal and Assam with whom their hills abutted. Sources in Bengal have mentioned the hill people as "Khassia".

The Muslim Community

The Muslim Community

 

The Muslim community made a huge contribution to the formation of Shillong. Apart from the Khasis, Government employees and professionals, Bengali Muslims were the earliest settlers of Shillong[1]. The Shillong Bar had about 20 members belonging to the community. 

Gurkhas of Shillong

Gurkhas of Shillong

The entry of the Gurkhas in Shillong started with the transfer of the Military in 1867 - when the 44^th Regiment moved into their new quarters in the Cantonment. Since the British yearned for the Gurkha troops, they took foremost care for the welfare of the Gurkhas and this led to the establishment of Gurkha village in Shillong.

Tigers and Leopards of Shillong

Wildlife in Shillong

As noted above, in June 1867 Thornton was ordered to Shillong, and in July 1867 his wife and children joined him there, although the house was not nearly ready and they had to live in the kitchen and cow-shed. Leopards swarmed in the jungle, which had as yet been very little cleared, and one afternoon, as they were sitting at tea outside the cow-shed, a leopard bounded from the jungle close by and carried off their little dog from beside them.

A seething cauldron of iniquity, sin and blasphemy

What was Shillong like in the early years?

Cholera made its appearance in the Hills in May 1869, travelling from the direction of Jaintiapur, on the borders of Sylhet[1]. It only showed its presence by a few sporadic cases from time to time until the 11 July 1869 when the disease broke out in an epidemic form among the police and in the jail.

Hopkinson's Tank (Ward’s Lake)

Hopkinson's Tank/Ward’s Lake

The existing artificial lake in Shillong, Ward’s Lake, was named after the two-time Chief Commissioner of Assam, Sir William Erskine Ward[1] (1885–1887 and 1891–1896). The preparatory work was initiated by Colonel Henry Hopkinson, the Commissioner of Assam in 1872 (1861–1874). In the early years it was known as ‘Hopkinson's Tank’. Local people still call the lake after the Executive Engineer, Mr. Fitzwilliam Thomas Pollock as ‘Nan Palok’.

Brahmo Samaj

Brahmo Samaj

In the late 19^th century, Bengal experienced changes from conservatism to liberalism. The Brahmo Samaj acted as a catalyst for this liberalism. The Brahmos had tried to relate oriental philosophy with occidental philosophy. This idea of reform was brought to Shillong by the Bengalee Government employees.

Brahmo Samaj

In the late 19^th century, Bengal experienced changes from conservatism to liberalism. The Brahmo Samaj acted as a catalyst for this liberalism. The Brahmos had tried to relate oriental philosophy with occidental philosophy. This idea of reform was brought to Shillong by the Bengalee Government employees.

The Shillong Brahmo Samaj was established on 8 November 1874, soon after the formation of the Chief Commissionership of Assam in Shillong. Initially, the Brahmos numbered around 25, most of them well-placed government servants who hailed from Sylhet and neighbouring districts in Bengal[1].

In 1874 the Brahmos of Shillong approached Maharshi Debendra Nath Tagore for financial help. As a result the Mowkhar Brahmo Samaj was established in the same year with a direct help of Rs.300 from him. The Reverand Nilmoni Chakraborty was in charge and he conducted prayers in the Khasi language for Khasi followers of Brahmo Mission. The liberal attitude of the Brahmos attracted many non-Brahmos of that time. Of note is the contribution of the Brahmos towards improving education in general and women’s education in particular.

Raj Chandra Choudhury and his wife Hemant Kumari Choudurani were among the early members, and were instrumental in setting up the Mahila Samity and a library on Jail Road. This was later shifted to the premises of the Khasi Hills Brahmo Samaj in Laban.

It was strongly felt that a separate wing be set up to educate and preach to the Khasi people in and around Shillong, and so a Khasi Mission was established to bring the Khasis into the fold of the Brahmo Samaj. Nilmani Chakraborty was appointed to this role, and after an initial stint in Cherrapunjee, he later took assistance from the Shillong Brahmo Samaj as well as two Khasi Brahmos, Radon Sing Berry and Job Solomon to construct the Mawkhar Brahmo Samaj. Babu Jeebon Roy took an active interest too in the building of this Samaj and provided much needed assistance.

Dutta Ray[2] has published a valuable paper depicting a detailed historical account of Brahmo Samaj Movement in the Khasi Hills:

“waves of Brahmo Samaj Movement entered the Khasi Hills by the north route through Gauhati where there were some Brahmos. Along with the shifting of the Secretariat on 20 March 1874, the Brahmos came to Shillong. In 1876, a Mandir was built and Gangadas Sen was appointed Secretary to the Brahmo Samaj. Raj Chandra Chaudhuri and Brajendranath Sen subsequently came to work at Shillong by the southern route, from Sylhet through Thariaghat and brought with them the message of Brahmo Samaj.”

One of the most prominent citizens of Shillong was Amjad Ali, a scholar, poet and philanthropist. His ancestors, hailing originally from Murshidabad in Bengal, migrated to Kulaura in South Sylhet and settled in the Amtail area. His father, Nawabzada Arjad Ali, came to Shillong in 1874. In 1875 Nawabzada Arjad Ali built a residential house near Sylheti Para in Laban. Amjad Ali, born in 1868 was brought here at the age of seven. Arjad's descendants are still maintaining the pristine structure with its contents intact. This could well be the oldest building in Shillong[3].

---

[1]http://www.thebrahmosamaj.net/samajes/shillongsamaj.html

[2]Social Movements in North-East India, Mahendra Narain Karna. B. Dutta Ray, ‘Brahmo Samaj Movement in Khasi Hills’, in Proceedings of NEIHA, 1st Session, 1980.

[3]Sengupta, Sutapa. & Dhar, Bibhash. & North-East India Council for Social Science Research. 2004, Shillong: a tribal town in transition / editors, Sutapa Sengupta, Bibhas Dhar  Reliance Pub. House, New Delhi:Syed Zarir Subhani in his article entitled 'Amjad Ali - The Khasi Poet'.

The Shillong Club

What was Shillong like in later years?

By this time, residents of Shillong were forming associations. The Shillong Indian Club was a literary institution established in 1876 and had ever since been catering to the literary tastes of the Indian public of Shillong[1]. Satyendra Kumar Bose was the joint Secretary of the club.

Schools of Shillong

Schools of Shillong

 

The Brahmo Samaj and the various Christian missionaries had a significant role in the formation of the educational institutions of Shillong. Soon after the Head Quarters was shifted from Sohra to Shillong, Babu Jeebon Roy worked for the establishment of a High School in Mawkhar area of Shillong.

Shillong Anglican Church

Trade/Commerce

A curious feature in the trade of the Khasi and Jaintia Hills was the total absence of Marwari or Jain merchants - an enterprising class, who were found everywhere else in Assam, even to the farthest corners of the Brahmaputra valley.

Municipal Station

Local Government in Shillong

 

Shillong was constituted a Station in accordance with the provisions of the Bengal Municipal Act of 1876 on 26 November 1878. It was made only after the decision was taken by the Deputy Commissioner for the inclusion of Mawkhar and Laban villages with the consent of the Syiem of Mylliem.

Khoh-kit-briew (Toppah):

Water Supply and Public Health

In 1879, William Hunter noted that the hill people displayed great ingenuity in cutting channels or aqueducts for leading the water on to their fields[1]. It was in this manner that the Civil Station of Shillong received its water supply.

The Shillong Cathedral

The Shillong Cathedral

On 27 February 1890, the first Catholic Missionaries came to the Khasi Hills, in the shape of the Salvatorians Fathers from Germany. It was not long after that they bought property in Shillong for what was then a princely sum of Rs.5,000.

Great Assam (Shillong) Earthquake of 12 June 1897

Great Assam Earthquake of 12 June 1897 (8.1)

 

After the transfer of the Head Quarters from Cherra to Shillong, this earthquake was perhaps the second event that transformed Shillong forever. It shaped the architecture and the layout of the town as well as road construction. 

Shillong Fruit Garden

Fruit Garden

The Shillong Fruit Garden was established in 1902 in order to test the possibility of introducing various European fruit trees into the hill districts, which possessed a climate resembling that of the warmer regions of Europe[1].

Fruit Experiment Station at Upper Shillong

Fruit Experiment Station,

Upper Shillong

In Upper Shillong, since 1903, the farm had been worked in conjunction with the Fruit Experiment Station. The main objective of the farm was  the introduction of superior varities of potatoes, the cultivation of fodder crops, the preservation of fodder in silos, and the encouragement of fruit culture.

Partition of Bengal

Partition of Bengal

Assam had already been brought under administrative umbrella of the Bengal Presidency. Its extensive territory including Bihar and Orissa also and spanning over 190,000 sq. miles with a population of 7 million with diverse ethnic, linguistic, geographical and climate components had created administrative problems.

Administration

Administration

 

In 1906, the District was divided into two sub-divisions Shillong and Jowai. Shillong was the Head Quarters of the Deputy Commissioner and the summer Head Quarters of the Deputy Commissioner and the Local Government.

Shillong Subdivision

Shillong Subdivision

 

In 1906, the Shillong sub-division was part of the Khasi and Jaintia Hills District, in the Province of East Bengal and Assam[1]. The sub-division contained one town, Shillong (in 1901, the population was 8,384) which was the Head Quarters of the Administration and contained 1,199 villages.

Bridle Paths

Bridle Paths

From Maoflang a bridle path ran north and westward through Sohiong (7 miles), Mairang (15 miles), and Nongkhlao (25 miles) to the border of the Kamrup district, 30 miles beyond Nongkhlao. There were Inspection Bungalows at Mairang and Nongkhlao.

Assam Legislative Council

Shillong Muslims and Assam legislatures

 

Some of the Muslim luminaries of Assam had become permanent settlers of Shillong and had landed properties including houses. They were inseparably connected for a long time with Assam politics based in the Provincial Capital.

The Shillong Memorial

The Shillong Memorial

 

Three major campaigns on the North East Frontier and in Burma were recalled by a small Memorial erected in Shillong Cemetery[1]. The Memorial bears the names of 94 men of the Assam Rifles and the Assam Military Police (predominantly Gurkhas), killed while maintaining order in Assam and Burma.

Ramkrishna Mission

Ramkrishna Mission

 

It was not before 1924, however, that the Ramkrishna Mission set up camp in the Khasi Hills. In that year Swami Prabhananda, inspired by Swamiji's ideas moved to these hills. He started educational institutions first at Shella, where a primary school was opened.

Shillong anecdotes

Shillong anecdotes

The ‘Azalea Walk’ was one of the most beautiful sights in Shillong[1]. It started from Lawmali by the side of the stream, skirting on to Wahingdoh and Raitsamthiah sides. Suna Valley, locally known as ‘Ka Them Suna Pani’, was covered by a dense forest with tall pine trees.

Postscript

Postscript

 European pensioners, serving officers, tea planters, businessmen – all built their cottages here[1], naming them after places in England: ‘Stratmore’ (now the BK Bajoria School), ‘Bonny Brae’ (housing the Survey of India office today), ‘Crowborough’ (where now a hotel is under construction), Redlands and La Chatelet in the Cantonment to name a few. ‘Charing Cross’, ‘Kings Cross’, ‘Briar Rose’, ‘Fern Dale’ and ‘Hunny Pott House’ were other names of cottages in Shillong, typical of this period.

4.0 Tracing Scott’s Road - A visual journey

4.0  Tracing Scott’s Road - A visual journey

Even though Scott’s Road is firmly embedded in the modern history of the Khasi Hills, yet so little is known about it. The entire route is literally strewn with history, both political and natural. I have delved into long-forgotten and obscure texts to piece together what Scott’s Road might have been when it was created.

4.1 Theria Ghat

4.1   

Theria Ghat (near Bholaganj)

 Dak Bungalow

Theria Ghat

We begin tracing Scott’s Road at Therria Ghat. Therria lies below Mahadeo in the East Khasi Hills District of Meghalaya.

4.2 Mawpun-ka-Rytiang (Mawpunkyrtiang)

4.2        

Mawpun-ka-Rytiang

(Mawpunkyrtiang)[48]

From Therria Ghat, Scott’s Road led to a curious small village called Mawpunkyrtiang, close to Cherra punji. The tale about the Siem of Malyniang is the pride of the Maskut people, for in olden days their King, i.e. the Siem of Malyniang, was supposed to have been a very powerful monarch amongst the Khasis: 

4.3 Moosmai (the stones of the oath of allegiance)

4.3

 Moosmai  

(the stones of the oath of allegiance)

Around 1834, Alexander Lish of the Serampore Mission (Serampore was then under Danish occupation) built three schools at Cherra poonjee, Mawsmai and Mawmluh. The Serampore Mission, however, abandoned its efforts in the hills in 1838. They were followed by the Welsh Mission, and the first school was built in Mawsmai in 1842, a small village, 2 miles from Cherra punjee.

4.4 Mamloo (the salt stone)

4.4

Mamloo

(the salt stone)[54]

As mentioned above, around 1834, Alexander Lish of the Serampore Mission built one of three schools at Mawmluh. The Welsh Mission built their second school in Mawmluh in 1842.

4.5 Laitkynsew

4.5

 Laitkynsew

In 1906, Gurdon made reference to the waterfall of Ka Likai, which was a magnificent cascade in the rainy season[58]. It could be best viewed from the heights of Laitkynsew. The waterfall was situated close to the village of Nongriat, which was approached by a succession of stone steps from the village of Tyrna, just below the Charra punji Laitkynsew bridle-path.